Growing up in Toronto, I rarely had a chance experience the wilds of Northern Ontario.  My experiences were limited to a once a year fishing trip with my father.  Every year on the May 24 long weekend we’d jump into the van and head for Charlton Lake south of Espanola to fish for Pike and Walleye.  The 3 day trips were the highlight of my summer and as years passed I looked forward to heading back more and more. 

As I grew older and had access to a car, we ventured to other places, found new fishing holes and for a while forgot about the great times we had on Charlton Lake and the Killarney region.

I always talked of returning back to the area, albeit in a canoe to explore this magnificent scenery and wildlife the region had to offer.

Charlton Lake is nestled in the northern section of the La Cloche mountain range and lies on the border of Killarney Provincial Park.  Killarney; known as Ontario’s Crown Jewel is a wilderness paradise.  The Park abounds with wildlife.  Bears, Deer, Moose, Wolf, Fox and various other mammals and birds all call this area home. 

While planning a fishing trip to the Elliot Lake region in May, I noticed I had an extra 2 days off at the end of my trip.  The drive home would take me within 30 minutes of the park access at Charlton Lake.  I figured this would be a great chance to experience the area again.  After consulting my maps I decided on a trip consisting of Charlton, Frood, Cranberry and Grace Lakes.  This would make a perfect solo overnight trip.  I had always wanted to venture past Charlton Lake and into Grace Lake; the scene of many paintings by the Legendary Group of Seven.  I was extremely excited to have my chance.

I pulled of Hwy # 6 and onto a short dirt road leading to Widgawa Lodge.  Widgawa Lodge offers park permits, canoe rentals, outfitting and campsites for those willing to access the park from the northern boundry.  After speaking with the owners briefly I set my tent up for the night and a much needed rest.  I planned on moving fast over the 2 days I’d be gone and was going to need all the energy I could muster.

At daybreak I loaded my canoe and pushed off.  The lodge is situated on a river about 500 metres upstream from Charlton Lake.  The river was slow and peaceful.  It would have been perfect if not for the millions of Blackflies and Mosquitos buzzing around my head.

Within 10 minutes I reached Charlton Lake.  There was no wind on this morning and the water was like glass.  The only ripples on the water were being made by smallmouth bass exploding on the surface to grab a tasty meal!

Heading down Charlton Lake, I soon passed Charlton Lake Camp and Bearskin Lodge. With the summer rush quickly approaching the owners were busy on shore going over all the finishing touches of opening camp. 

Once you get through the main channel and head east through Frood and Cranberry Lakes you leave the noise and cottages behind.  As you enter Cranberry things narrow down a bit and a sense of tranquility comes over you.  Every sound is amplified as you scan the shoreline for signs of wildlife.

The lake widens a little as you head down Cranberry towards the portage into Grace Lake.  I stuck close to the shore and kept a modest pace as I gazed upon the magnificent rock outcroppings that dot the shoreline.  This area has a rugged beauty to it I have yet to experience anywhere else in Ontario.

It took me 3 hours to reach the portage into Grace Lake.  The official Killarney map pegs this portage as 1,745 metres.  I strapped my pack to my body, threw the canoe over my head and headed up the trail. 

My excitement soon subsided as I headed up the first of many steep climbs.  This was only my second solo excursion and the weight of carrying all the gear and canoe soon caught up to me.  Half way through I stopped; exhausted, I reached for my water bottle and drank almost a full litre.  I was tired.  Fishing from a boat doesn’t usually involve tramping through a portage with 100 lbs of gear strapped to your body.  I’ll make sure to prepare better next time before heading out. 

Although I was hot and tired, the scenery along the portage is breathtaking!  A small stream runs the entire stretch of the portage, cutting it’s way through a mixed forest of birch and pine.  You cross the stream at 4 points along the portage.  I rustled through my pack and found my water filter.  I spent a few minutes pumping water, then found a blowndown Birch that seemed to make the perfect place to sit down and have lunch.  I’ve had many peanut butter sandwiches in my life, but this one was by far the greatest ever made.  I cursed myself for not bringing another sandwich along. 

Soon after I finished eating I was off, gear and all to finish the portage.  After more sweating and too many insect bites, a small downhill slope lead to the vision of a faint blue in the distance.  Another 50 metres saw me standing at the foot of Grace Lake.  I had arrived. 

The scene here is simply awesome.  As you stand on the shore of Grace and gaze upon the lake you can’t help but notice the gorgeous view.  Looking directly across the lake are the treed quartzite hills made famous by A.Y. Jackson’s painting “Nellie Lake”. 

I helped myself to yet more water before pushing off.  For years I had wondered what was beyond the trees and hills bordering Charlton Lake. Finally I could see first hand the true beauty of the area. 

Shortly after pushing off, the wind picked up substantially, aiding my travel down the lake. 

There are 3 campsites on Grace Lake.  After inspecting all 3 I decided on the one closest to the Nellie Lake portage.  It’s a large site on a point offering a great view of Grace.  I quickly located a large flat area perfect for my tent.  To my surprise, there was a well constructed fire ring and lots of dry piled wood. 

I quickly set up camp and built a hot fire.  Soon I was enjoying a great pasta dinner on the shores of an interior lake.  The weather had been perfect all day, and the evening was no exception.  The wind was gone and Grace was calm and quiet. 

From the campsite I noticed a few trails.  With over an hour until sunset I figured I’d pick one and go for a hike.  I made my way slowly up one of the trails for 20 minutes or so, looking out for any wildlife along the way.  While the animals didn’t cooperate, I enjoyed the taste of the fresh evening air, something I definitely don’t experience in Toronto.

I made my way back to camp just before sunset.  After snapping some pictures and putting out the fire, I climbed into my tent.  The day had been long and eventful and my body was very tired.  It didn’t take long before I was asleep. 

I woke up just after 7:00 the next morning.  As I made my way out of the tent I realized I hadn’t had a sleep that peaceful for as long as I could remember.  I felt great. I felt rested, really rested.

Scrambled eggs, bacon and coffee were on the menu for breakfast.  I ate a leisurely breakfast and watched a mother loon trying to teach here young to fly.  It was quite an amazing sight.  The chicks would “run” down the lake flapping their wings trying desperately to take flight.  Finally the chicks gave up and swam back to their mother.

I packed up camp rather quickly and loaded the canoe.  It was already warm and the sun was still low.  It was going to be a hot day and I wanted to get moving. 

I made my way to the portage leading back to Cranberry Lake.  I filled my water bottle and loaded up the gear and canoe.  Going downhill this time, the portage was a lot easier.  I made it to the Cranberry landing in 35 minutes, and I still had my wind. 

While the day before had been calm, the winds were not so cooperative today.  They were blowing straight down the lake.  I would be facing a strong headwind for my paddle back to Widgawa Lodge. 

I hugged the shore trying to use it as a breaker whenever the opportunity arose.  At times the wind was so strong I actually felt like I was going backwards.

After two muscle wrenching hours of non stop paddling I made it to the narrows.  I was elated to be there.  At least for a short while I would have a break from the wind.  I guided my canoe to shore and had my lunch.  A Power Bar, an apple and some crackers.  Not much of a meal but it was exactly what I needed. 

As I left the narrows of Cranberry and came upon Frood Lake the winds went from bad to worse.  Here they seemed to come from 2 directions with the sole intent of seeing me end up wet.  Again I hugged the shore and paddled hard.  Soon I reached the channel of Charlton Lake and it’s semi-protected waters. 

I stopped at Charlton Lake Camps main dock for a much needed rest.  The area was busy with people coming in and going out. 

A few minutes later I was off on my final leg, driving hard towards the main lodge.  The wind had died down considerably and was now bearable.  After another 30 minutes of paddling I saw the entrance to the river.  I was happy to see it as I was quite tired from paddling in the wind, however I was also sad I had to leave.  The thought of waking up in Toronto the following morning just didn’t seem too appealing.

As I entered the river I laid my paddle at my side and leaned back.  The current was almost non existent and this looked like a perfect place for a quick nap. 

I woke up nearly half an hour later to a family of turtles sunning themselves on a log next to my canoe.  I snapped a quick picture and started paddling again.  Within a few minutes I saw the cache of canoes from the lodge.  Slowly the dock appeared and I pulled in.

My trip was over.  It was rather quick, only 2 days, but I had achieved what I wanted to.  For so long I had wanted to explore a new part of this region and now I had done so. 

The entire Killarney area is spectacular.  I’ve backpacked parts of the parks southern areas and was amazed at it’s raw beauty.  The southern parts of the park can become busy though, especially during peak season and during holidays.  If you’re looking to do a trip in Killarney and you’re after a little solitude, give the northern sections a try.  Using the Charlton Lake access point allows you to explore this northern section rather easily.

  I’ll be returning next year, hopefully with more time to explore the many other lakes the park has to offer.

Park Permits:

George Lake Campground: Main park office and permit issuing station

                                             Phone: 705-287-2900

Charlton Lake Access Point: Widgawa Lodge (permits, canoe rental, outfitting)

                                              Phone: 800-562-9992